![]() If it’s set too loose, it will slip, and that can lead to a diff-gear meltdown. A ball diff does not have a wide adjustment range, however. A ball differential can be adjusted with little or no disassembly at worst, you have to pop off a camber link and swing a driveshaft out of the way. ![]() Gear diffs can also handle more power than ball differentials, which is why you stop seeing ball diffs once you get into high-power/high traction 1⁄10-scale nitro applications and everything 1⁄8 scale and up. ![]() A ball diff, however, requires periodic disassembly and rebuilding to function at its best (or at all, if you really let it go too long). Once assembled, a gear diff can be run with little or no maintenance until it wears out, which can take a looooong time. This smoothness helps maintain traction in slippery conditions. This lets the diff transfer power to the wheels very smoothly, even when making very tight turns when there is the greatest speed difference between the right and left wheels. Because it has no gears and thus no gear teeth, it has no backlash or free play. The ball diff (top) uses steel balls that roll on smooth rings to provide diff action without backlash or play while a gear diff must have some play to operate properly. No matter how you slice it, the average speed of the two wheels will match the rpm of the diff. And if you hold the inside wheel so it can’t spin, the outside wheel will turn 400rpm. If it slows to 100rpm, the outside wheel will spin at 300rpm. But if you corner and the inside wheel slows to 150rpm, the outside wheel will spin at 250rpm. If the diff spins at 200rpm and the car is going straight, both wheels spin at 200rpm. Because of its ingenious design, any acceleration of one wheel decelerates the other by an equal amount (and vice versa), so the average rpm of the wheels will always equal the rpm of the differential. So how does the diff “know” what to do? It doesn’t it’s just a simple mechanical device. But when the car turns, the outside wheels must travel farther than the inside wheels, and so the outside wheels must rotate faster (and the inside wheels, slower). But why are the wheels traveling at different speeds? If the car is driving in a straight line, the wheels spin at the same rpm. That’s where the name “differential” comes from: it’s a mechanism that compensates for the differential in wheel speed. What does a diff do? How does it work? Which type is best? We have the answers.Ī differential allows a car’s drive wheels to deliver power simultaneously, even as the wheels are traveling at different speeds while cornering. Even though nearly every car has at least one, and differentials are critical to a car’s handling, they are often misunderstood. Hello,i too have had major trouble with ring/pinion gears with this truck,i have gone through 7 or so sets in three months,shimmed diffs,new bearings,same thing,to me,it looks like there are a few reasons for this issue,one is the fact that the rear case that was on my truck when i overpayed for it,would never line up when out of the truck,two-it looks like when the motor engages the center drives and starts to work that rear pinion,it looks like there is much sideplay from the tork,i used a shim to pull that pinion closer to the diff case to take some play out and this worked and everything still spun freely,one shim on the pinion,and two on the diff itself yeiled the best results so far,i too see the "black stuff" in my rear case,this is grease and diff fluid binding with the dirt that snakes its way through the cracks and stuff on these things,i tried some RTV sealant around the bottom half of the assembled diff case before i put on rear arms and skid plate etcetc and used a pair of vise grips to hold it together until it dried,not to tight though,this seemed to do the job half way,then on the dissasembley after that i noticed there was less dirt but it still was letting dirt in from the top of the case,so something around the case to seal it up might work,idk.,but that is about the only nagging problems with this truck,also these ring gears seem to be off center,it seems,anyone else notice tight spots,also i have seen the integy aluminum diff case and was wondering if any1 has tried it,it looks as though it might be a better made product with tighter tolerences than the stocker,the quality on these rear diff cases are bad it sounds like.Unless you have a drag car, your RC machine has a differential-maybe even two or three.
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